Recessed areas take a bit more care when doing a vehicle wrap

The most difficult areas on a vehicle to wrap cleanly and with durability are the deep, recessed areas. The two main reasons for this are that the deep channels can be tricky to conform the film to and the dramatic stretching of the film puts a lot of pressure on the adhesive to hold the application surface.

Perhaps the most challenging deep, recessed area on vehicles can be found on most models of Sprinters. This deep recessed area is particularly difficult because it has two 90-degree-angled sides, and the width of the deep recessed area is small. This means a minimal amount of film has to cover a challenging amount of application surface.

Here, we wrap an extended-top Sprinter. The wrap was for a video shoot for Justin Pate’s new video series “Techniques and Tips: Vehicle Graphic Installations” that is hosted at www.carwraps.net and part of Mutoh’s “Business Builder” program.

The media used is 3M IJ380 film with 8580 overlaminate produced on a Mutoh ValuJet printer.

Justin Pate is a professional graphic installer with more than 14 years of experience. Along with installing, Pate teaches workshops for Mutoh, Avery and 3M.

As difficult as this type of deep recessed area can seem, knowing the right steps and techniques can turn it into a routine application.

There are four essential steps for deep recessed areas: choosing the right media; cleaning the area properly; using the right tools/techniques to apply the media; and post heating.

Choose the medium
The first step is to choose the right media. Not all media are capable of conforming properly to this area. The media need to be highly flexible and have a strong adhesive.

Two major media manufacturers make film that is specifically made for deep recessed areas: 3M has its IJ380 and Avery has its new 1005 Supercast film.

Equally as important as choosing the right film is choosing the right overlaminate. Overlaminate can be stiff and thick, which can result in the media failing over time. The key is to use a 3D-conformable overlaminate and choose a thin version. For example, Avery offers two thicknesses for its DOL overlaminate: 2.0mm and 1.3mm. I always choose the 1.3mm because I know it will significantly help the material hold deep, recessed areas.

	Step 1. Clean the area The first step is to clean the deep recessed area properly. I like to use a two-part cleaning system. I clean the area with a general-purpose cleaner to remove dirt and grime (I’m a big fan of white vinegar). I then clean the application surface with a degreaser to remove any oil that can compromise the adhesive (I use either isopropyl alcohol mixed with water or Avery Surface Cleaner). Be sure to use a lot of elbow grease and be extra thorough. The cleaner the application surface the better the adhesive will bond.
	Step 2. Right tools Once the material is covering the recessed area, it’s time to get into technique and using the right tools (e.g., infrared thermometer). In most cases, the deep, recessed area will be completely covered by the material. If this is the case, an outlet for the air has to be created.
	Step 3. To do this, poke two tiny holes about 1/8” above the top side of the inside area. Poking two holes allows more air to come out and, if one hole accidentally closes, it gives insurance that air can always escape.
	Step 4. To properly and safely conform the material to the deep, recessed area, I prefer to use an application glove. Use an application glove that is form-fitting and thin. Spray the application glove with soap and water until it’s thoroughly soaked. The more wet the glove, the fewer mistakes. I like to use baby shampoo because it doesn’t have acid in it; dishwashing soap has acid, which can compromise certain adhesives.
	Step 5. Before applying the material into the corners, set the film properly by running a finger along the edges. This helps create even tension on the material which eliminates mistakes. This sets the material up properly to the edge, which helps eliminate wrinkles when the film is conformed into the corners.
	Step 6. Apply heat Once the edges are set up, I apply heat to the material and firmly push my finger into the outside corner. I prefer to use a heat gun instead of a propane torch for these areas. A heat gun warms the film more evenly and safely. With the soapy water acting as a lubricant and the heat softening the film, I then glide my finger along the corner. The two big tricks here are to angle the finger at a 30-degree angle to give the air time to escape out of the two holes and to be sure that the application glove stays wet. The heat can dry out the application glove, which can lead to it grabbing and wrinkling the material. One good tip is to stop the application of the corner to just before the air outlets. Keeping this air outlet open is key to letting the air escape when the inside corner is applied.
	Step 7. Corner pieces Apply the inside corner with the same method. After both corners are applied I then run a squeegee down the middle and pop any bubbles. Go over the middle section with the squeegee to make sure the material properly bonds to the middle section. It is very important that the corners are applied first, and not the middle section. The reason for this is that by applying the corners first, the tension on the material is directed on the flat surface in the middle. If the middle were applied first and then the corners, the tension would be in the corners, which is the weakest spot. This leads to the failures.
	Step 8. Post-heat Once the material has been applied to the deep recessed area it’s very important to post-heat the film. Post-heating the film means that the material is heated up to a specified temperature determined by the manufacturer. This eliminates the film’s” memory.” The memory factor means that the material has a natural tendency to go back to its original shape and tension. This process puts a lot of pressure on the adhesive to hold the area. Post-heating eliminates this memory, which significantly helps the durability. To post-heat, use an infrared temperature gauge and a heat gun. Using an infrared thermometer is key to post-heating the film to the specified temperature by the manufacturer. This process can take a few minutes but it’s worth doing to ensure durability.

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Right and wrong applications

The proper way to apply the material to deep, recessed areas is shown with these graphics. First, the material bridges the deep recessed area. Second, the material is applied into the corner first. Third, the material is applied to the flat area. By applying the material in this order the tension is directed onto the flat surface which helps ensure durability.

These graphics show the wrong order for applying film into deep recessed areas. In the first, material is applied to the flat area first. In the second, the material is applied to the corner afterward. This method directs the tension the material into the corners which leads to failures.

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In conclusion, deep recessed areas are certainly one of the tougher aspects of vehicle graphic installation. They are difficult to apply and they pose a challenge in terms of durability. By following these four steps — choosing the right media, cleaning correctly, using the right techniques and tool and then post-heating — deep recessed areas will become as easy and mistake-free as wrapping the easy sections on a vehicle.